One of the most memorable parts of our trip to France this summer was the day Andrew and I visited Chantal at the senior residence in Aix-en-Provence where she lived. She was 94 years old and as lovely as ever. As Chantal and I spoke in French, I looked into her eyes and saw the sparkle of her younger days, when we lived at Domaine de Valcros, the Provençal manor where she hosted students on the third floor. Chantal always wore a skirt and blouse, and toujours, toujours Chamade, the wonderful Guerlain perfume. As it turns out, we were among the last to see her. Chantal died two weeks later. These photos were taken when I revisited in the 1980s. Chantal's son Thibault stated it perfectly: "Maman était vraiment l'amour, la joie, bonne humeur, l'attention et l'écoute des autres." (Translation: "Mom was really love, joy, good humor, caring, and attentive to others.") Rest in eternal peace, dear Chantal de Kernanois.
While attending The Leo Marchutz School of Painting and Drawing (see "The Leo Marchuz School: A Visit to My Alma Mater" , July 22, 2026), I was fortunate to live in this historical and elegant 18th-century Aix-en-Provence manor called Domaine de Valcros. Set in a pastoral landscape, one could hear nightingales trill at night and the hollow bells from a gaggle of goats passing during the day. Since it was the "south of France," I thought it would be balmy all year. WRONG. I froze my ass off that winter. The floors were tiled, and the bedrooms had a measly heater in the corner. We lived in the servants' quarters, accessed via a circular stairway at the back of the manor, or bastide , which is French for a country house in Provence. There were three young French men who attended the University of Aix, and three American girls: my sister Pamela Kogen (now an acclaimed San Francisco artist), Lynn (from Seattle), and me. The proprietaire (our landlord) was Chantal ...